CHATORI GALI of BHOPAL

From Sarrafa Bazaar to Khau Gali:
 The Every Day Transformation In Bhopal's Jewelry Market

Khau is a Marathi word meaning lip smacking edibles given out of affection. Gali means lane or small street.  Thus Khau Gali are sweets and savory snacks areas found across Maharashtra. These lanes have also retained their name in regions once held by Marathas. These streets are frequented for typical Indian street food. Of course, now one even finds Indianised version of Chinese food, pastas, sandwiches etc.  Outside Maharashtra, they can also be found in places which were once ruled by Holkar and Scindia. Thus one can find Khau Gali in Indore, Ujjain, Bhopal and other cities.

Bhopal’s Khau Gali also known as Chatori Gali here, is situated in Ibrahimpura area. Although a small stretch, it is a prominent landmark in city. It is like asking anyone in Delhi to direct you to Lal Quilla!
This area is also the bullion market of city. Saraf is name to those dealing in precious stones, metals and jewellery. Hence name Sarrafa Bazar. This is over century old market. C.M Jewelers, H.B Jewelers, Shringar Jeweler are some of the reputed shops in the area. These shops usually close down by 8pm..
It is still unclear as to why most of the night khau gallis in India are located in Saraffa Bazars or Bullion market places. One probability is that the traders were occupied with their activity from morning to evening. As such they were in need for nearby place to spend evenings with their families and friends. Also was need for some bud tingling snacks to unwind. Thus came up the mobile food stalls also called khomchas in some parts of the country. Another probability is, that jewelers themselves encouraged such spots. The noise and bustle of crowd would help in safety of their shops. Thus they may have started offering out space in front of their shops. The closed shops have well illuminated boards. This coupled with well lit carts offers ample lighting, as crowd pulls in.


Chatori Gali of Bhopal is a cluster of many small shops that come alive late in the evening churning out yummy delicacies, especially non vegetarian stuff.  The place is one marvelous hang out for non vegetarians. As one traverse, on both sides you would see marinated cuts on display. Your order is processed in front of you. Precooked and stored food does not have much role here. The food is typical hot, spicy tingling or chatpata nature. It’s usually low price fare. Bun Kebab (Indian style hamburger) will make you forget the fatigue of day. At Jhilli Miyan, it is bun cut into half. Then slightly heated on griddle, Tawa. Kebab becomes patty, which is topped with green chutney, marinated onion rings and a dash of unknown chatpat masala. Although influence of Mughlai food casts, the Sheekh Kebab found here is crispy with soft paste type inside. This is quite unlike one gets in Lucknow and Delhi. Similarly, Paya soup which is mostly thin class soup, here it is slightly thicker, probably by use of atta or some flour. To this are added chunks of meat and sprinkled with tangy masala.It is also less oily as compared to one found in rest of country. Fish Chat is another gourmet’s delight here. It’s a marinated fried fish which is juicy on outer and flaky and tasty inside. Tandori Chicken is yet another delight that enhances visitor’s experience here. Varki samosa is evening delicacy here not to be missed. It is a samosa having very spicy mutton kheema filling.

The place has few restaurants also. Jameel is one such place. Established in late 40s, it serves tasty biryani and Ishtoo (local accent for stew). It is also known for its Sheermal, a saffron flavored pan cake. Food is delicious with efficient serving staff. The prices are also reasonable. Gazala is another joint to enjoy. Apart from Bhuna Kheema and Kulcha Tandori, the Nargisi Kofta will make your day (oops evening here). It is a boiled egg covered with kheema. Deep fired and immersed in yoghurt based gravy.

Though not much in vegetarian section as such, the journey can be sweetened with Shahi Tukra. It is thick bread cut into square. Then deep fried and immersed in thick flavoured milk, Rabdi. Another desert to be relished here is unorthodox mix of two sweets, the barfi- rasmali dona.  As the Bhopali culture goes, Paan is indispensable part. A beetle leaf with mouth freshening flavor rolled up in artistic fashion is pride of Bhopal’s gastronomy.